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Green Racer

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Green Racer.jpg

Posting yet another camera motion experimental shot.  All in all I've enjoyed making these shots.  It's fun to look at ordinary objects and think about how it would look when the light is drawn across the camera sensor.  This one, again, is blurred wholly within camera.  With this one I attempted to use a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer in PS to change the colors.  However, I found that none of the other combinations that resulted looked nearly as natural as this one.  The colors here are quite complimentary.  Not sure why the camera was set to ISO 320 given the tiny aperture and slow shutter.  

Camera = Canon 40D

Lens = Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro

Shutter = 0.3 seconds

Aperture = f/32

Focal Length = 100mm

Exp Comp = +0 ev

Flash = off

ISO = 320

Vapors

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Here is the second picture from the Blue Bell experimental series.  After reading about these techniques in books I finally tried it out.  This was taken with the sun at my back with my macro lens.  I was about 2 feet away from a patch of Blue Bells.  I closed the aperture down to lengthen my shutter speed.  Then, while holding down the shutter release, I moved the camera up and down at an ever increasing rate.  After about 10 frames I would stop and look through the images to see if anything looked good.  The only editing for this image was the color and exposure.  All of the blurring was accomplished in camera.  I really like how the purple seems to wrap around the green stems like vaporous clouds of purple smoke.


Camera = Canon 40D

Lens = Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro

Shutter = 1/10 second

Aperture = f/32

Focal Length = 100mm

Exp Comp = +0 ev

Flash = off

ISO = 320

Blue Bell

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Blue Bell 001.jpg
































I've been experimenting with my macro lens after reading some articles about camera motion while shooting.  This technique produces some really cool abstract shots.  I tried it out today for the first time and I plan to post several of the shots here.  This one is a typical macro that I thought came out pretty well.


Camera = Canon 40D

Lens = Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro

Shutter = 1/200 second

Aperture = f/2.8

Focal Length = 100mm

Exp Comp = +0.7 ev

Flash = off

ISO = 100

Ruby Beach 2

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Ruby Beach 2.jpg


































Here is the next installment of the Ruby Beach series.  The rocks off in the distance covered in mist were very photogenic.  It was a nice way to end an 7 mile beach hike.  There were also a few other photographers on the scene with their fancy gear and tripods.  I got this shot just before I left... no tripod required.


Camera = Canon 40D

Lens = Canon 17-40mm f/4L

Shutter = 1/100

Aperture = f/4

Focal Length = 40mm

Flash = Off

ISO = 400

Mary and the Donut

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Mary at Volunteer park (2).jpg

I usually don't post pictures of people because I am horrible at portraits.  For some reason they always look wrong.  This one came out really great.  There is something really different about the aspect, depth of field, lighting, etc with this shot that really grabs my attention.  If I could just figure out how to replicate whatever I did that would be swell.  It's my sister mary by the way... isn't she perdy!


Camera = Canon 20D

Lens = Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

Shutter = 1/250

Aperture = f/5.6

Focal Length = 70mm

Flash = Off

ISO = 200



Better Now 1... Or 2, 1... Or 2?

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Have you ever had an eye exam?  Well here's one for you to comment about!  

I've been struggling with Photoshop's masking features forever.  For some reason i've had a mental block against them for quite some time.  As a result I always get images that I know I can make better using PS and some masking tools; yet, I give up because it was just too hard.

Well, I finally decided it was time to learn.  I picked up a book titled "Photoshop CS3 for Nature Photographers," written by Ellen Anon and Tim Grey.  Their explanations are really good and I am happy to say I now "get" how to do masks.  I don't know what my problem was, they are so easy!  

Anyway, here's a pic I processed in my usual way using a few steps in Apple's Aperture software:
Lucy at Iron Peak A.jpg
The dynamic range for digital cameras has not quite caught up to the range that can be captured with film.  So, I always shoot for processing to the middle.  That is, balance the light and the dark areas.  The results, as you see here, are a sky that's too bright with lost detail in the clouds and a dog that is too dark with lost detail in the fur.  

Now that I can do masks, I decided to try again using photoshop to add two curves layers to this image and mask part of it so that I could maximize the exposure settings for both the dog and the sky while maintaining a natural look.

I think this second image is much more visually exciting than the one above... What do you think?  Did I over do it?
Lucy at Iron Mountain P.jpg
Camera = Canon 20D
Lens = Canon 17-40mm f/4 L
Shutter = 1/100
Aperture = f/11
Focal Length = 33mm
Flash = On
ISO = 200

Tobe - 2

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Tobe3  367.jpg

Another from the Tobe series. The kitty was on a white blanket in the sun. It made for a unique, high contrast image. I need to find a table that relates depth of field to f-stop. This was f/4 and I thought the depth would have been sufficient to get the eyes in focus if I focused on the bridge of the nose... not the case with a macro lens I discovered. And of course I forgot to check my ISO settings. Good thing the 20D is so forgiving at 800.

Camera = Canon 20D
Lens = Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro
Shutter = 1/1250 second
Aperture = f/4.5
Focal Length = 100mm
Exp Comp = -1.0 ev
Flash = off
ISO = 800